You want a coffee spot you can sit in without getting restless — somewhere between phone, book, and however long the conversation runs. Hemşin Pastanesi over in Kalkandere might turn out to be exactly that kind of place. Some afternoons the room fills with laptops, some afternoons it's tea glasses and a backgammon board running into its third game — you won't know which crowd you're walking into until you're standing in the doorway.